Welcome to this travel guide on La Guajira, Colombia.
The Guajira Desert is a vast wilderness located up in the northern-most point of Colombia (and of all of South America).
La Guajira has yet to catch on to mainstream travel sites, and can be considered one of the true last “unknown” adventures of the continent!
Table of Contents
La Guajira, Colombia
In this guide we will explore the region, how to get around, the destinations as well as why I view it as a great cultural destination.
As one of the true off-the-beaten-path experiences in South America, the Guajira Desert is a fascinating and hard-to-reach region for most travelers.
The Guajira Desert: Why Travel Here?
As well as the unearthly landscapes and un-spoilt beaches, the Wayuu people (an indigenous tribe) are native to this region.
Having arrived in the area as early as 150A.D, there’s been almost no change in their lifestyle. This was fascinating and surreal for me to learn.
These are people that used traditional paint and clothes to identify each other, as well as hunting and fishing as part of their self-sufficient lifestyle.
Trade is of utmost importance to keep this tribe alive, and due to the harsh conditions a lot of them live in extreme poverty.
They are experts in making bags and hammocks, so organize a visit to their stalls once you arrive!
How to get to La Guajira Desert
Getting to the region itself is an experience. For me, the journey was almost as good as the destination, as it really summed up an off the beaten path, spontaneous trip.
There are a few points of entry, including from Venezuela, however, for the easiest access, we will begin in the popular city break destination of Santa Marta.
Starting on your first day, you will want to wake up relatively early and head to Santa Marta’s main bus terminal on the outskirts of town.
If you’ve seen my one-week itinerary for this region I mention how you can get to this from Riohacha which is a place that you shouldn’t miss out on if you have an extra night, (or two), to spare in this region.
💡Smart Travel Tip
From Riohacha you can organize the full trip to both Puta Gallina, Cabo de la vela by speaking to one of the local tour operators.
Buy a ticket which is headed for the city of Macao, however, let the driver know that you want to get off at ‘Cuatro Vias‘ (he’ll know what you mean).
Cuatro Vias is an unofficial stop along the dusty highway, and literally has four roads connecting and nothing much else, apart from vehicles moving loads and some wooden shacks selling food.
Once you arrive (after about four hours on the bus), you want to head to Uribia, the capital of the region.
Ask around with the locals and they will guide you to the next leaving truck or taxi. The drive up will take about 45 minutes.
Arriving in Uribia
Once in Uribia, you are technically in the Guajira zone, but the journey has not ended yet! From Uribia, you want to ask around for anyone heading to Cabo de la Vela and be sure to have some small bill notes with you.
Many trucks head up there with resources such as food and toiletries, so you are able to hitch a lift with them! Knowing a bit of basic Spanish goes a long way in this region.
These leave up until around 3 pm, so it is key to start traveling early from Santa Marta, otherwise, you will need to spend an extra night in Uribia which is not at all necessary.
For the best cultural experience, find one of these trucks driving to Cabo and not a taxi. Make sure you hold on to your belongings tight here; keep valuables even closer.
This is because they stop in the middle of the desert on the way, servicing many tiny communities with resources such as food and water.
La Guajira Desert: Points of Interest
Aside from Uribia, which serves as the capital and also the first point of entry into the region, there are two main destinations you can visit.
Each of these is also home to other cool trips and experiences, and some will require determination and grit to get to!
Cabo de la Vela
A small, sleepy beach-side village, Cabo does get some visits from tours but is still off the radar of most. It is a popular area for wind sports, given its conditions and location.
Unlike Palomino, you’ll not find many traditional hostels here. However, there are a few places next to the sea with some really cheap rooms and hammocks to stay in (I paid the equivalent of $3 for a room to myself).
There are lots of small gems dotted around, and the best thing to do is to get yourself on a motorcycle tour.
Near the South-end of the main road, which cuts through the middle of the village, you will find a group of motorcycles.
💡Smart Travel Tip
Check with the locals but for around $7, you can get a half-day tour of the area! Make sure you have plenty of battery life in your camera or device.
As well as driving out into the desert, you will visit Cerro Pilón de Azúcar, a vantage point on the coast as well as Ojo de Agua, an underground cavern which jets out into the sea.
You can also ask to visit El Faro, which with its west-facing location across the Caribbean, is the place to be when the sun is beginning to set!
Punta Gallinas
Punta Gallinas is famous for being the Northernmost point in all of the continent and provides a unique and authentic travel experience.
The area derives its name from an old story, that once upon a time, a ship disembarked and thousands of chickens escaped along the coast! (Fun fact: Punta Gallinas can literally be translated as The Chicken Point).
To head here you will need to book yourself onto a tour (the desert is quite difficult to access as well as government presence to protect the area and tribes).
Again you can ask the locals as they know where the tours are organized in town. You will leave early on a 4×4, and spend a half-day traveling through several terrains.
Expect a few breakdowns, as these were common during my trip!
You will visit one of the best beaches in Colombia, Dunas de Taroa (big sand dunes), and stop off at a beach-side accommodation for the evening, where the hosts will prepare a locally produced meal for you.
You will get to see the sunrise over the beautiful landscape, before heading back to Cabo de la Vela.
La Guajira: Travel Tips
As with every travel guide I write for travels and backpackers to Latin America I do my best to provide up to date information.
Below I have written a set of travel tips and things to consider before you travel to this region.
Is Punta Gallinas Safe: When is best to go?
With the region being described as xeric shrubland and the fact it is a desert, it will not surprise you that some parts of the desert receive very little if not no precipitation all year.
In Cabo de la vela, the temperatures hover between 80°F and 90°F throughout the year, meaning a trip here can be taken whenever you want with guaranteed good weather!
Cabo de la Vela does receive more rainfall in October and November.
In the desert itself, temperatures regularly soar above 95°F and sometimes above 105°F, so bring lots of water, ideally an eco-bottle you can refill and try to stay in the shade as much as you can.
Overall the area is safe as you’ll be amongst local guides, and you can visit pretty much any time of the year. Just make sure you pack lots of sunblocks as the sun will reflect off the sand, making it feel even hotter.
La Guajira Colombia: Transport
When you arrive in Uribia, try and track down some of the trucks that will make the trip, instead of using a taxi.
It’s one of the best ways to see the real Guajira, as they drive through seas of cacti and desert to service some of the tiny, indigenous villages.
Another recommendation is to take the motorcycle tour in Cabo!
Again, locals know best as always and will be able to help you see everything in the region.
This will give you the chance to see some of the more off the beaten path gems: like the underground cave and parts of the desert which are less easy to access.
Travel Insurance for Colombia
I always recommend backpackers and travelers (no matter who you are) use World Nomads Insurance for fully comprehensive cover.
If you are due to travel soon, you can get a Get A Free Quote by clicking the link or the image above and filling out your details – that way you’ll get instant cover from the exact date that you choose.
On many occasions World Nomads has provided me with reliable insurance cover for travel in Latin America and the rest of the world.
La Guajira, Colombia: Will you Visit?
I hope you enjoyed this article. In this guide, we have looked at the Guajira Desert, how to get there as well as some pretty interesting destinations you can visit there.
As you have seen, the weather is pretty consistent so you can head there whenever.
For the most authentic experience, you should head there now before all the crowds catch the drift, where you can still explore an untouched region full of beauties!
For more Colombia inspiration see my backpacking Colombia guide!
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