Did you know Colombia has deserts within its borders?
As I journey deeper through South America, I’m continually amazed by the continent’s unexpected landscapes and hidden gems.
I recently returned from Colombia, and I’m excited to share every detail!
Join me as we explore the rugged, otherworldly beauty of Tatacoa Desert and discover what makes this unique landscape so captivating.
Tatacoa Desert, Colombia
Alright, I’ll admit—I already knew about La Guajira, the northernmost tip of the South American continent. But Tatacoa has a unique charm all its own.
This place is, without question, one of the most fascinating spots to visit in Colombia, especially considering how isolated and surreal it feels.
So, without further ado, let’s dive a little deeper into the landscape and discover what makes this desert-like oasis so captivating.
What is the Tatacoa Desert?
After the long trip, I arrived with low expectations. At first glance, the Tatacoa Desert feels like a scene straight out of a classic Western! This stunning Colombian desert is a must-see before you leave the country.
Though it’s often called a desert, Tatacoa is technically a dry tropical forest. Rain is scarce here, so sturdy shoes are essential for exploring.
Unlike the vast sand dunes of the Sahara, the Tatacoa Desert has a surreal, otherworldly landscape that transports you to another planet.
Long ago, Tatacoa was a lush, green forest teeming with vegetation and wildlife, including species that have since become extinct.
How to get to Tatacoa Desert
Are you looking at how to get to the Tatacoa desert? I traveled with a small group from Medellín in Antioquía, and it took around 12 hours via bus.
Before arriving at the desert itself, we stopped in a small pueblo to grab snacks and stretch our legs after the long haul from Medellin.
Cali to Tatacoa Desert
If you’re thinking of traveling from Cali to Tatacoa Desert by bus, the fastest way would be to go through Popayan. You’d need to look for a direct bus to Popayan (3-4h) and change the bus to get to Tierradentro.
Then from Tierradentro, look for a bus to take you to Neiva (4-5hr).
From Neiva, you’ll find it easy to get to the Tatacoa Desert using local vans as mentioned below on the Bogota route.
Bogota to Tatacoa Desert
If you’re traveling from Bogota to the Tatacoa Desert, you can get a coach from Bogota to Neiva, which is around 5-6 hours in traffic.
Note that from Neiva, you can look for local pick-ups or vans that depart around 4-5 times a day from the same terminal.
Generally, the drivers will take you all the way to your accommodation providing you know which hostel you’re staying at.
Check with the driver first, but if he refuses to drop you off outside your hostel, get out at the observatory, and get a tuk-tuk from there.
💡Smart Travel Tip
If you do get the chance to stop in Villavieja, you can buy water by the bag for around COP3,500; this will save you money on buying more expensive bottled water in the desert.
When you arrive in the desert, you’ll see the sign, and there’s a path that leads right through up to a certain point. I stayed in the Laberintos del Cusco hotel, which was one of the first on entry to the site.
The hostel was close to the observatory, which was a huge bonus.
It was located across the path, so we didn’t have to walk far to attend the talks they give at midnight.
How to Prepare for Tatacoa Desert
Be sure to carry a sun hat to protect your face from the sun rays.
The heat is so intense, and I found it difficult to concentrate. However, the mornings are nice and cool.
If you’re more adventurous, you could easily stay more nights. I next time I will carry a travel hammock that has a built-in mosquito net.
Remember to buy any supplies you may need because there are limited resources in the desert. Also, don’t expect to have too much contact with friends and family online because of the limited signal.
I carried this special device with me, which kept my camera charged up for the duration of the two nights and three days I spend in the desert.
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Things to do at Tatacoa Desert
Here are some of the activities to interest you whilst at Tatacoa Desert.
- Observatorium
- Rent bikes
- Do Horse riding
- Hiking with a local guide
- Swimming
I found the activities in the desert to be very reasonably priced. For example, the entrance to the Observatorium was only COP$10.000.
For that, you get an astronomy talk, which lasts around two hours plus the opportunity to view the desert through a telescope.
For this experience, I recommend you have a friend or somebody who can translate Spanish.
It’s crucial to know how to speak Spanish or understand the language because you’ll learn a lot of valuable information about the desert and the surrounding area.
1. Walking through the red desert
The morning I arrived, I had breakfast, got changed, and began hiking through the red desert. I was the only person who attempted it and was very comfortable.
The Tatacoa desert tour and hike I did, (now I have a pair of hiking shoes hanks to some research), including a walk through the red desert, lasted for three hours.
This included pit stops and pausing more frequently to take photos.
You’ll encounter many interesting artifacts, animals, and plants throughout the hike. I highly recommend that you carry a decent camera. I used this camera to take most of my photographs.
The trail includes stopping points that encourage you to take a rest.
Take small breaks because the intensity of the sun catches up with you and without any word of warning. A UV Sun shirt helps reduce exposure. I had a slight headache towards the end of the 3-hour trek.
2. Festival of the Stars
Depending on what time of year you visit Desierto de la Tatacoa, you can find the La Fiesta de las Estrellas de la Tatacoa, which is in July (between 17th and the 20th) and also known as The Star Party.
Experts in astronomy, students and enthusiasts, travel from all over go to the desert to celebrate and give special lectures and talks.
Tatacoa Desert Accommodation
When it comes to Tatacoa desert accommodation, you could mix up the types of places you stay, depending on how long you’re staying.
Firstly, you have two main options, which include sleeping in the desert.
Take your pick of one of the limited hotels available; there are around 8 in total. These small bed and breakfast options are run by local families. Expect to pay around 15,000 COP per night.
Knowing what to wear in the desert is important if you’re going to be doing the second option.
This means traveling back and forth to the town of Villavieja. You can get in one of the tuk-tuk style vehicles that will transport you around the local area for a small cost.
As you’ll learn throughout this article, the facilities are very scarce. After researching before I arrived, even the most luxurious hotel in Desierto de la Tatacoa lacks a few basic services.
The second option would be traveling back and forth to the town of Villavieja. You can get in one of the tuk-tuk style vehicles that will transport you around the local area for a small cost.
Best Hostel in Tatacoa Desert
I arrived at Desierto de la Tatacoa with low expectations, so I wasn’t shocked by the basic accommodation or food choices at the hostel
My hostel Laberintos del Cusco was on the edge of the red desert, so for me, it was the best location of all.
Although the food wasn’t great, I didn’t have to worry about eating because they took care of breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Even on a plant-based diet, the kind lady in the kitchen made sure I had something substantial to eat for each meal.
My favorite thing, without a doubt, was the view.
To wake up in the morning to the view of the desert was priceless and gazing at the amazing sunrise and sunset.
Also, never in my life have I felt so close to space. The stars appeared so close that my arm wanted to reach out to touch them.
I stayed in a shared room with my own double bed. There’s a camping option available if you prefer to sleep in a tent.
Also, if you like the idea of sleeping in a hammock (I do), there’s that option too.
Exploring other hostels
I noticed that most of the accommodation and activities in the area are quite accessible, making it easy to get around.
Since it’s a small community, I took the chance to explore several other hotels. Some even offer swimming pools open for visitors to enjoy.
Expect to pay no more than COP$5,000 to use swimming facilities.
Below are some other places that I recommend staying:
After staying in the desert for two nights, I felt my stay was sufficient.
Tatacoa Desert Travel Tips
See this list of travel tips for Tatacoa Desert that will give you more ideas of what to see whist scouring the dessert during your time here.
⤵️ Dan’s Travel Tips For Tatacoa Desert:
- Hike in the Grey Desert. It’s not as iconic as Red Desert but it’s worth it. Located in Los Hoyos sector you must take a tuk-tuk to cover ten kilometers from the center of the Tatacoa Desert.
- Wear a swimsuit when visiting the Grey Desert, if you plan to take a dip in the natural pool called Piscina Mineral. But just so you know, it’s usually crowded.
- Be sure to wear a UV sunhat and apply enough sunscreen.
- Don’t forget to carry cash! You’ll need it for many things like tuk-tuk travels, entrance to the museum, etc.
- Sign on to a travel tour to Tatacoa Desert in Neiva.
- Electricity is a VERY limited resource in the desert, so make sure you prepare for this.
- Visit Museo Casa del Totumo where you can see a lot of handicrafts made of Totumo. Open on Tuesday to Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm.
- Use Booking for your hotel reservation. Also, only choose one that offers free cancellation, doesn´t need payment in advance, and guarantee biosecurity protocols.
- Other things I recommend you carry are a torch, swimming gear, a warm blanket and a water bottle.
- You can hike Cuzco (Red Desert) and Los Hoyos (Grey Dessert) during the same day.
- Please don’t try to climb up any of the storax deserts. They are so fragile and need to be preserved.
- Be sure to go for the sectors el Cardón and el mirador de Ventanas, you’ll get epic panoramic views from there.
The hardest part of this adventure for me was, enduring the heat of the sun. I used these sunglasses to protect my eyes.
It’s imperative that you stay covered whilst walking as the sun gets unbearable. Carry water with you at all times for hydration.
Tatacoa Desert Travel Guide
Though wonderfully secluded, Desierto de la Tatacoa has quickly become one of my top three must-see destinations in Colombia.
This unique desert landscape offers a wealth of experiences and provides a glimpse into a distinct and captivating side of Colombian life.
The local people are warm and welcoming, often greeting you as you walk or drive by. As a traveler, I found this incredibly inviting, as they genuinely rely on visitors like us to support their way of life.
The good news for budget travelers, especially those arriving from cities, is that essentials like food, drinks, and even souvenirs are quite affordable.
Learn what other places you can see in Colombia by taking a look at this list of the best towns in Colombia that you can visit on your travels.
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Dan says
It looks like a great place to spend a few days, but I agree that a massive hike in that sort of terrain would be really challenging. Good luck with your language learning!
Suzanne says
I’ve never even heard of this place. Colombia has so many places to discover. It’s sad that people think it’s only about the drug trade.
James Smith says
I spent about 6 months in Colombia. I thought I had traveled everywhere but hadn’t even heard of the Tatacoa desert. I traveled everywhere by bus too – Bolivariano was my favorite company. It’s nice to read a blog where the blogger has actually been to the place they are writing about. Your photos are excellent too – definitely an Instagrammable desert!
Abby says
I haven’t heard of or known about Tatacoa desert prior to reading this post. But I can tell why you speak so highly of it. The landscape formation is truly impressive. It is a true work of art!
Lisa Rivera says
This is incredible, and one place I want to see for sure. It’s surprising that you could walk in your flip flops in the desert, how cool! I’m sure you need someone to translate here, as you want to get the best out of your experience. Good tip on the water bottle too!
Kate Storm says
What a cool desert (or dry forest, lol)! The photos remind me a lot of the landscapes you see in the Southwest USA around Arizona, Utah, etc. The limited wifi signal would definitely cause us to keep the trip short as well, but it would be a great spot for an overnight!
Dada KS says
Tatacoa desert is definetely a place I would love to visit! It reminds me a lot of the landscape I have seen while road trippin in the weat coast of the US. Really really beautiful! I love hiking so hiking around the desert would be awesome following by a dip in one of the hotel pools!
Hope to explore the Tatacoa desert one day!
Samah says
I can’t believe you hiked in flip flops! They must have been super comfy, but I guess it probably feels nice to let your feet breathe in the hot climate. Tatacoa Desert really does look like Mars or something, I have thing for horseback riding everywhere I go, so I would definitely try it here. it sounds like quite the trip.
Tania Mukherjee says
Tatacoa desert indeed looks like outer space. I was shocked to know you managed hiking through that terrain in flipflops. I could understand the blazing heat that must have raged high and discouraged you from staying longer, even though I come from a tropical place, heat irritates me!